By PATRICIA BROOKS Published: April 13, 1997 A RESTAURANT hires a good chef, opens with great hoopla, receives rave reviews and builds a loyal following. Time passes, the chef leaves or management grows complacent. Within a couple of years the restaurant may become unrecognizable. It is such a familiar story that when the reverse happens — a restaurant improves with age — it really is news. That brings us to three restaurants, two improved with time, the third, having starting out at peak performance, just fine after more than two years.

HUNAN TASTE

When Hunan Taste opened in New Canaan more than seven years ago, it was minuscule, more take-out than eat-in. The restaurant expanded, spilling over into an adjacent storefront. In the process, considerable upgrading has taken place. Decorated with finely carved cherry wood Chinese chairs and cabinets and bright Ching-style bowls and vases, the main dining room has jade-green walls with paneled wood wainscoting.

With the expansion, the food has improved, turning what was a Satisfactory dining experience into a Good one. Even a simple wonton soup has a subtle ginger essence and the dumplings tasted freshly made. Both the jumbo shrimp in black bean sauce and chicken with string beans (and mushrooms and bamboo shoots) have hot-from-the-wok sparkle.

Dishes are appetizingly presented, too. Orange beef, in a lively sweet-spicy sauce, for example, arrived with a border of fresh orange slices and was decorated on top with slivers of zest. A cup of hot and sour soup was pepped up with chopped chives. Service, always attentive and cheerful, is even more so now.

Dinner entrees run from $8.95 to $13.95. Lunch specials are $6.95 to $8.95. 25 Elm Street, New Canaan; 203-966-2338; major credit card accepted. Hours: 11 A.M.-10 P.M. Monday-Thursday, to 11 P.M. Friday and Saturday, noon to 10 P.M. Sunday. Reservations accepted.

BOXING CAT GRILL

Charisma. Whatever that intangible magic is, Boxing Cat Grill obviously has it. Since it opened in 1989, this roadside watering hole-cum-restaurant in Old Greenwich has been packed. A no-reservations policy (except for larger groups) means that you have to go early or be prepared to wait up to an hour. The bar seems to do a bustling business, but the exuberance barely registers in the separate dining room, where a large space has been artfully separated into four areas with well-spaced tables. Soft track lighting overall adds a restful, even romantic cast to the room.

While the food was always Good, it could be fussy, with every vegetable and potato accompaniment complicated and competitive with the entree. The eclectic menu has now been pared down, and we appreciated the printed list of nightly specials. Certain dishes skirt a Very Good rating. Roasted rack of lamb — four perfectly cooked rare baby chops — in port wine sauce, was a prize, arriving with a delicious white bean gratin and roasted king oyster mushroom-leek compote. Pan-seared duck breast — rare, with a crusty edge — rode the crest of spinach papardelle, which was tossed with oven-dried tomatoes, goat cheese and pine nuts. Shepherd’s pie, a carryover from the old menu, is still hearty and satisfying.

Among several delicious house-made desserts, chocolate mousse on a raspberry sponge cake was a star. Adding to it all is an accomplished and friendly staff.

Dinner entrees run from $8.95 to $21.95. 1392 East Putnam Avenue (U.S. 1), Old Greenwich; 203-698-1995; major credit cards accepted. Hours: 11:30 A.M.-3:30 P.M. Monday-Friday; 6-10:30 P.M. Monday-Thursday, to 11:30 P.M. Friday-Saturday. Sunday brunch noon-4, dinner 4-10:30 P.M.

BAANG CAFE AND BAR

When this knock-out looking cafe opened two years ago in Riverside, it introduced Western-Asian fusion cooking to Fairfield County. Fortunately, Baang is going strong, the food still Excellent. Virtually everything is a delight — provided the diner is open-minded about sometimes startling combinations.

Our special favorites, crackling calamari salad (with the squid very lightly breaded and fried, then tossed in hot chili oil and lime, served on a bed of greens), charred rare tuna (just beyond the sushi stage, with avocado and a tomato-wasabi vinaigrette) and sizzling whole fish (marinated in ginger, with a red chili dipping sauce) are dynamite. And the crispy spinach side dish, deep-fried to gossamer crispness in soy oil, is a must. Desserts, like the chocolate pagoda and pineapple-coconut upside down cake, are spectacular — if you have room.

Dinner entrees run from $18 to $32. 1191 East Putnam Avenue (U.S.1), Riverside; 203-637-2114; major credit cards accepted. Hours: Noon-2:30 P.M. Monday-Friday, 6 P.M.-10 P.M. Monday-Thursday, to 11 P.M. Friday-Saturday, 5-11 P.M. Sunday. Reservations accepted only for groups of six or more.

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